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Pesty Bloomn plants, that Irritate!

 

Attention All Outdoors Men & Women, knowledge is POWER!

Thanks to the age of finger tip information, I present to you, the dear reader; a guide to unitchy outdoor adventures!  Ta Ta…till next time…

Information brought to you by: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep220

Unfortunately, the native plants poison ivy, poison oak, poison and sumac can make these outings a miserable experience .  All four contain Urushiol, a plant oil that can cause a severe skin rash (dermatitis) when any part of the plant is contacted. Allergic reaction can occur directly by touching the plant or indirectly by coming into contact with the oil on animals, tools, clothes, shoes, or other items. Even the smoke from burning plants contains oil particles that can be inhaled and cause lung irritation.

Poison Ivy (Toxicodendron radicans)

Poision Ivy

Poision Ivy

Poison ivy grows in shady or sunny locations throughout the U.S.  It can be a woody shrub up to 6 feet tall or a vine up to 150 feet tall that climbs high on trees, walls, and fences or trails along the ground. All parts of poison ivy, including the hairy-looking aerial roots, contain urushiol at all times of the year, even when bare of leaves and fruit in winter. Plants are frequently abundant along old fence rows and the edges of paths and roadways. Leaf forms are variable among plants and even among leaves on the same plant; however, the leaves always consist of three leaflets. The old saying “Leaflets three, let it be” is a reminder of this consistent leaf characteristic. Leaflets can be 2–6 inches long and may be toothed or have smooth edges. The stem attaching the terminal leaflet is longer than stems attaching the other two. Leaves emerge with a shiny reddish tinge in the spring and turn a dull green as they age, eventually turning shades of red or purple in the fall before dropping.  Flowers and fruit are always in clusters on slender stems that originate in the leaf axils, or angles, between the leaves and woody twigs. The berrylike fruits are round and grooved with a white, waxy coating. They are attractive to birds. The leaves and fruit are an important food source for deer.

Poison Oak (Toxicodendron pubescens)

Poison Oak

Poison oak, also known as Atlantic poison oak, oakleaf ivy, or oakleaf poison ivy, is a low-growing, upright shrub that is about 3 feet tall. It is found in dry, sunny locations and does not tolerate heavy shade.

Like poison ivy, a single poison oak leaf consists of three leaflets. The stem attaching the terminal leaflet is longer than the stems attaching the other two. One distinguishing feature of poison oak is its lobed leaves, which give it the appearance of an oak leaf. The middle leaflet usually is lobed alike on both margins, and the two lateral leaflets are often irregularly lobed. Leaf size varies considerably, even on the same plant, but leaves are generally about 6 inches long. Another distinguishing feature is that the leaf stems and leaflets have a coating of fine hair.

Leaflets emerge with a reddish tinge in the spring, turn green, and then assume varying shades of yellow and red in the fall before dropping. As with poison ivy, the flowers and fruit arise from the leaf axils in clusters. The small flowers are white, and the ripe fruit is round, light tan, waxy, and grooved.

Poison Sumac (Toxicodendron vernix)

Poision Sumac

Poison Sumac

More allergenic than poison ivy and poison oak is poison sumac, a deciduous woody shrub or small tree that grows 5–20 feet tall and has a sparse, open form. It inhabits swamps and other wet areas, pine woods, and shady hardwood forests. Poison sumac leaves consist of 7–13 leaflets arranged in pairs with a single leaflet at the end of the midrib. Distinctive features include reddish stems and petioles. Leaflets are elongated, oval, and have smooth margins. They are 2–4 inches long, 1–2 inches wide, and have a smooth, velvety texture. In early spring, the leaves emerge bright orange. Later, they become dark green and glossy on the upper leaf surface and pale green on the underside. In the early fall, leaves turn a brilliant red-orange or russet shade. The small, yellowish-green flowers are borne in clusters on slender stems arising from the leaf axils. Flowers mature into ivory-white to gray fruits resembling those of poison oak or poison ivy, but they are usually less compact and hang in loose clusters of up to 10–12 inches in length 

Individuals vary in their susceptibility to these plants. Some people are not sensitive but may become sensitive after repeated exposure. Symptoms appear within 8–48 hours and can last for weeks. Itching and burning of the skin may be followed by a rash, redness, swelling, and watery blisters. The rash, which can last 2–5 weeks, is not contagious and will not spread. Systemic complications can occur if the blisters become infected.

Over-the-counter skin creams containing the active ingredient bentoquatam to absorb the urushiol oil and can prevent or lessen a reaction if applied before contact. If exposed to the urushiol oil in one of these plants, immediately cleanse exposed skin, tools, shoes, or other items with plenty of warm, soapy water and then rinse thoroughly with plain, cool water. Clothes should be washed thoroughly and separately from other laundry. Minor rashes can be cared for at home with over-the-counter treatments that contain zinc acetate, hydrocortisone, or zinc oxide; oatmeal baths; a paste of baking soda; or oral antihistamines. Severe or infected rashes may need professional medical treatment.

Interaction with these plants is largely preventable. This publication helps individuals learn to identify these plants in order to avoid contact with them. Children should be taught to recognize these plants, particularly poison ivy, as it is by far the most common. Keep in mind that poison ivy, poison oak, and poison sumac are deciduous, making identification difficult in winter. Nevertheless, the sap from leafless stems and roots is still problematic.

Learn to recognize poisonous plants invading the Wisconsin landscape

Weekly News article published: June 11, 2013 by the Central Office                                                                                                                                                                                                                    http://dnr.wi.gov/news/Weekly/Article_Lookup.asp?id=2605
MADISON – Two non-native wild plants that are starting to flower in Southern Wisconsin can cause serious harm to people who encounter them, making identification and control of these plants a high priority before they set seed this fall, according to state invasive species specialists.
Poison hemlock and wild parsnip are becoming more common along roadsides and are threatening the integrity of the natural areas as they encroach, says Kelley Kearns, a native plant ecologist with the Department of Natural Resource.  “During their flowering stage is the best time to control these plants, specifically by mowing,” Kearns said.
It is said that Greek philosopher Socrates was killed by drinking the juice of poison hemlock. The sap from the plant contains chemical compounds known as neurotoxins that can be absorbed through the skin. The sap of wild parsnip can cause phytophotodermatitis: when skin is exposed to sap in the presence of sunlight, it can cause severe rashes, blisters, and discoloration of the skin.
Both of these plants are members of the carrot family, Apiaceae.

 

Poision Hemlock

Poison Hemlock

“It’s hard to believe that such unforgiving plants are relatives to some of our most popular garden plants,” Kearns said. “Our edible, garden-grown carrots, parsnips and parsley are all closely to these plants.
Distinguishing these species from their many relatives can be challenging, but Kerns said there are a few defining characteristics that can help aid in identification:

Wild parsnip

Wild parsnip

Poison hemlock (Conium maculatum)
A defining trait is smooth stems with streaked blotches or purple spots.
Tiny five-petaled white flowers bloom in an umbrela.
Leaves are triangular and broad, but finely divided, giving them a lacy appearance.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Wild parsnip (Pastinaca sativa) Small yellow flowers bloom as flat-topped umbels.  Leaves are pinnately compound made up of broad, diamond-shaped leaflets, similar to celery.

Kearns said the best time to control these plants is by mowing them when they are in their flowering stage. The plants should be mowed after flowering heads appear, but before seed is produced. Annual mowing treatments will reduce populations over time.

“Due to their toxic chemical constituents, people need to take precautions when dealing with these plants,” Kearns said. “Avoid any direct contact to your skin and minimize inhalation of plant residues. Always wear gloves, long sleeves and pants, as well as safety goggles.”
For more help with identification and photographs, search the DNR website for “poison hemlock,” or “wild parsnip.” 

The Infinitve Rose….

A Roses antiquity is indicated by the fact that the name for it is almost the same in every European language.

A Roses antiquity is indicated by the fact that the name for it is almost the same in every European language.

Roses have been known throughout the Northern Hemisphere as far back as literature records. Early poets of Greece, China, and Persia all sang praises of the Rose. Dried roses have been found in Egyptian tombs.

There are several different classes of Roses.  There are 3 main groups, according to usage; bedding roses, climbing and creeping roses, and shrub roses.  There are approximentally 16,000 varieties of roses and 296 classified species.

Lets start off with everyone’s bloomn favorite the cut rose;  When cutting fresh roses to enjoy indoors do so during the evening hours.  Roses cut in the evening live 10 hours longer than those cut in the morning.  The reasoning behind this is thought to be the extra supply of sugar that the leaves store during the day.  Sugar is manufactured during the day, at night it travels to the roots and other parts of the plant.  So this sugar can be used to nourish the flowers after they are cut.

Ever blooming roses should not be cut below the second leaf axil on the cane if the bush is expected to continue to blossom.  The fewer leaves removed from the plant the more flowers will follow.  If the blooms are allowed to stay on the plant until the petals fall off, the old bloom should be pinched off just above the top leaf.

Planting your Roses need sun, free circulation of air, and porous, well-drained, acid soil.  Spring time planting is suggested.  Full sun for 6 to 8 hours a day is best.  Soil should be trenched and ready to a depth of 24 inches.  If so desired remove first few inches of top soil and set aside.  Remove another few inches and discard.  Replace with half-rotted manure and humus mixed into remaining soil.  Allow this to settle for two weeks before planting.

PLANTING:  A hole slightly larger in diameter than the spread roots of the plant should be dug when planting, barely deep enough to bury the bud graft.  Soil is mounded in a cone shape in the center of the hole, and the plant seated upon it.  Make sure to prune any damaged, or straggly roots.  Fill the hole half way with dirt and pour a pail of water into it, to wash the soil among the smaller rootlets.  When water seeps away, finish filling the hole to ground level and tamp around the plant.  Canes are then pruned 6-8 inches above soil level.

CARE: Roses need plenty of water when the season is dry, but it should be supplied at weekly intervals in quantities large enough to reach the deepest root, rather in small quantities daily.  Watering done in the morning of a sunny day will be less likely to cause mildew than if it is done at night, when foliage main remain wet.  To conserve moisture when weather becomes dry and hot, a mulch may be spread around the plants.

WINTER CARE:  Most Rose bushes need winter protection in areas where temperatures fall below 10 degrees.  It is standard practice to mound the soil around the plants to a depth of at least 8 inches.  Canes are drawn upright, and the longer ones trimmed to 30 inches.  After soil is throughly frozen, a mulch of straw, leaves or garden refuse mixed with manure may be filled in between mounds.  Further protection is seldom needed, unless the plants are exposed to drying winter winds.  Burlap sacs held by stakes may be used to shield from strong winds.

That is how to care for and make sure the antiquity of the brilliant Rose continues.

Thanks for reading,  and untill something is bloomn next time,

Stop and smell the Roses!

Exquisite Evergreens

Bloom’n today is the beautifully exquisite evergreen tree, or Christmas tree.  With the season behind us, I thought it proper to discuss the most popular type of evergreen trees used around the world, to give you some thing to think about when next picking out a tree for your home, or business.

Six species account for about 90 percent of the nation’s Christmas tree trade.  Scotch Pine ranks first, comprising about 40 percent of the market, followed by the Douglas fir which accounts for about 35 percent.  Other big sellers are Noble Pine, White Pine, Balsam fir, and White Spruce.

Christmas trees have symbolized many things for different cultures around the world.  It has been used as a symbol of life’s triumph over death, to worship the agriculture god, as a sign of eternal life to ward off evil spirits, and as hopes of the fourth coming spring.  Our modern christmas tree evolved from these early traditions.

Legend has it that Martin Luther began the tradition of decorating trees to celebrate Christmas.  He saw a beautiful group of evergreens covered in snow, shimmering in the moonlight.  When he got home he set up a little fir-tree indoors so he could share this story with his children.  He decorated it with candles.  The Christmas tree most likely came to the U.S. with Hessian troops during the American Revolution, or with German immigrants to Pennsylvania and Ohio. It was even illegal to have a Christmas tree in New England, as late as 1851, and kids went to school on christmas day through 1870.

Terri-Froelich-Christmas-tree The market for the Christmas tree, was born in 1851 when a farmer hauled two ox sleds of evergreens into New York City and sold them all.  By 1900, one in five American families had a Christmas tree. Well happy tree hunting, what a wonderful tradition…..stay warm!  And ta ta till next time.

The Christmas gift that keeps on giving…

Poinsettia in full bloom

Poinsettia in full bloom

Beautiful Poinsettia Plant

With the holidays behind us, I thought I would devote a Bloom’n moment to the beautiful Christmas Poinsettia.  Caring for your Poinsettia can bring years of Christmas beauty to your home.

Most of the time when you receive or buy a Poinsettia it is in the blooming stage.   To care for the Poinsettia during the blooming stage keep the plant from drafts, in a room about 70 degrees, no cooler.  A sunny window, free from drafts, is a good place to keep potted Poinsettia, they require a lot of sun.  Water every day from above, with slightly warm water.  Never let the soil dry out, yet do not keep it soggy.  Excess moisture is sure to shorten the period of the plant’s bright display of red, pink and white flowers.  Even if kept under perfect conditions the plants will drop their leaves later in the winter months.

The plant will start going dormant when only red bracts remain at the top of the Poinsettia, this is the plants natural behavior, for it requires a resting period after it has bloomed.  When the lowest leaves begin to drop, gradually withhold water, and finally let the soil dry out completely.  When only the naked stems remain, store the pot in a warm, dry place until early May without applying any water.

In May, shake the old soil out of the pot and repot with fresh rich soil.  You may add a small amount of manure to fertilize.  Cut down the stems to within two or three eyes or bud from the base.  Water and sink the pot outdoors in a sunny spot level with the soil surface.  Soon after the plants are set outdoors, new shoots grow into large specimens.  Plant must receive full sunlight and lots of moisture.  In the fall, putting the Poinsettia indoors and again giving it plenty of sun and water is imperative to the plants.  Following these simple steps will again assure that you will have a blaze of color at Christmas.

And there it is…..The Christmas gift that keeps on giving, if you care for it properly

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Are you a Bleeding Heart lover?

bleeding heart

Bloom’n today is the Bleeding Heart Bush.  This beauty grows to be 2 1/2 feet tall and three feet wide, producing pendant pink valentine-shaped flowers along arching stems in May and June.

The Bleeding Heart Bush should be planted in light shade in rich, humusy soil and left undisturbed for many years.  The brittle, fleshy roots break easily and divisions may have difficulty reestablishing themselves.  The ferny foliage tends to die soon in mid to late summer, especially if the plant is in full sun.  Locate it near other plants which will mask the gap left in the border when this happens such as hostas, day lilies, ferns, or annuals.  Bleeding Heart Bushes also make fine rock garden plants.

Once established, the Bleeding Heart needs no maintenance other than an annual top-dressing of compost.  You must plant this in the spring.  To extend the blooming period of the Bleeding Heart, you must pick off the faded flowers.

Until next time,  ta ta.

The Sun Flower

What a beauty!

What a beauty!

 Bloom’n today is the Sunflower. The sunflower is a tall, course annual herb that resembles a colossal daisy. Commercially it is one of the most important herbs in the world today. From the point of view of the gardener, growing sunflowers is an enjoyable occupation. When the plants are young their heads will turn to face the sun every morning. There are many varieties, including some that do not produce seed. Sunflowers grow very well in mild, organic fertilizers, and they have few insect pests, so seldom need to be sprayed. Sunflowers will grow successfully on any land that will produce a field of corn. Seeds need to be planted at least three or four feet apart, four giant heads. But for production of seed, space them more closely. As the plant matures, the head will grow heavy and the stalks may need some support. In a small garden sunflowers should be planted in the back or along the perimeter of the property. Sunflowers can be harvested as soon as the backs of the seed heads are brown, and dry. At this time, the inner rows are ripe, but need drying. To harvest, cut off the heads with about a foot of the stalk attached. The stalks are tied together, and the heads hung in an airy loft or barn to dry. When throughly dry, remove the seeds by rubbing the heads lightly. If stored in air tight containers, their food content and vitamins will stay in good condition for a long time. Sunflowers are especially attractive to the smaller seed-eating birds such as goldfinches and chickadees, which will harvest the seeds themselves. Humming birds will visit them for nectar and small insects

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